Most Common
Mistakes
- Violating or ignoring code
restrictions,
- Using supply pipes that are too small,
- Moving or knocking copper pipes while
the newly sweated fittings are still hot,
- Creating fire hazards by leaving
materials smoldering after sweating fittings,
- Attaching copper to galvanized without
using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two,
- Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound
at threaded pipe joints,
- Not running pipes to correct locations,
and
- Trying to solder a pipe joint when the
water has not been completely drained. (Be certain the
main valve is turned off and that the supply lines are
drained at the lowest point of the house, at the tub/shower
and at the sinks. Flush all toilets.)
- If you drain the lines at the outside
hose valve, this is best. Just be sure this valve is fed
from the house main rather than from the well or city water
main.)
- When turning the water back on in your
home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your
toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris
can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing
trim.
Joining
Copper Pipe
|
 You
will need to purchase your copper fittings in accordance
with the joining method you will be using. Soldering is
the method used to join hard copper pipes together. For
this you will require a small butane or propane torch,
00 steel wool or emery cloth, a wire pipe brush, a can
of soldering flux and some solid core wire solder. Check
you local code * for the wire solder required in your
area. Some require 50/50 which is 50% tin and 50% lead
which is stronger than 60/40 for a better joint
connection. Others use lead free.
|
Measuring
and Cutting Copper Pipe
To determine the length of copper pipe,
you will need to measure the distance between the fittings and
add the distance the pipe will extend into each fitting. Keep in
mind that pipe insert distances will vary for various types of
joints. Although usually 1/2" pipe will insert 1/2"
and a 3/4" pipe inserts 3/4". Copper pipe can be cut
with a pipe cutter that has a blade designed for cutting copper.
Use the cutter by placing the pipe into the opening and twist
the knob until the cutting wheel just pierces the copper pipe.
Then rotate the cutter around the pipe, tightening the knob
after each revolution, until the pipe snaps in two. After you
have cut the pipe, use the special blade on the tubing cutter to
ream out the "burr" on the inside of the newly cut
pipe.
Tip: Whether using hard or soft
copper tubing, take care not to damage it as you work. Cover the
jaws of wrenches or vices with electrician's tape.
Soldering
1. Drain the
pipes completely for any water in the pipes will
interfere with a successful soldering job. Turn
off the main water supply valve and open a
faucet at the low end of the pipes. Usually an
outside hose bibb works best.
Hint. Once the water has drained out,
stuff some plain white bread into the pipe near
the fitting you are about to solder to absorb
any remaining moisture. Once you turn the water
on again, the bread will disintegrate. |
| 2. Use the
steel wool, emery cloth or very fire sandpaper
to polish the last inch of the outside of the
pipe and the inside of the fitting down to the
shoulder. Wire pipe brushes that clean both the
outside of the pipe and the inside of the
fittings, are also available in both 1/2 and 3/4
inch sizes. It is important that you clean both
fitting and pipe thoroughly. Time spent on this
step will save time later fixing leaking joints.
It is much easier to do it right the first time. |
| 3. Apply flux
around the polished inside of the fitting and
around the polished outside of the pip end.
(Some solders are available that contain the
flux within the solder.)
4. Place the fitting on
the pipe, twisting back and forth a couple of
times to assure even distribution of the flux.
|
| 5. Heat the
bottom of the pipe first with the propane torch.
Slowly pass the torch back and forth across the
fitting to distribute the heat evenly. Take care
not to get the fitting too hot because the flux
will burn away to nothing. You can tell the
joint is hot enough when the soldering wire will
melt easily on contact with it and not stick. By
touching the soldering wire to the joint
occasionally as you heat it, you can avoid
overheating. The moment the wire melts, the
joint is ready. |
| 6. Remove the
torch and touch the soldering wire to the edge
of the fitting. The solder should pull in
between the fitting and the pipe by capillary
action. Continue to solder until a line of
molten solder shows all the way around the
fitting. Be certain there are no air gaps
between the solder and the pipe fitting. |
| 7. Wipe off
the excess surface solder with a damp rag before
it solidifies, leaving a trace of solder showing
in the crevice between fitting and pipe. |
Caution: Keep your hands well away from the hot
joint and take care not to bump or move the newly
soldered joint until it has cooled.
|
Air Chambers
or Cushions
Often pipes will bang when a faucet or
valve is suddenly cut off. This can damage the pipe and is
irritating to live with. The banging is caused because water
does not compress when its flow is suddenly stopped. To prevent
this, we recommend installing manufactured air chambers, or
shock absorbers, into the hot and cold supply lines at each
fixture. These contain inert gas and bellows that absorb the
shock. These manufactured products work better than using a one
foot length of copper pipe as these must be drained every few
years. These fittings may need to be replaced or have parts
within them replaced on a regular schedule. |
