|
 Here
we offer general instructions and precautions for
roughing in, as well as installation procedures for
tying into your present drain waste vent and supply
systems. When all the roughing in has been completed and
you are ready to assemble your bathroom sink, your rough
plumbing should resemble that shown here.
Most
Common Mistakes
 Violating
or ignoring local code restrictions,
- Using pipes that are
too small,
- Attaching copper to
galvanized without using a brass or
dielectric fitting between the two,
- Not using Teflon tape
or pipe compound at threaded joints,
- Not leveling your
fixtures when installing them,
- Not installing an air
gap filling for fixtures,
- Cutting supply stub
outs too short to install the shutoff valves
onto after the finished wall is in place, or
- Not properly aligning
tubing into fittings or stop valves.
(Forcing the nut onto the compression ring
at an angle when the tubing is at an angle
will cause a leak.)
- When turning the water
back on in your home, always run the outside
hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed
dirt and air from the lines. This debris can
cause problems in your sink faucets and
other plumbing trim.
|
|
Installing
your Bathroom Sink
Pipes required for roughing in the
bathroom sink include hot and cold supply stubouts, shutoff
valves, transition fittings, and possibly flexible tubing for
above the shutoff valves. Air chambers may also be required*.
If you are installing the bathroom sink in
a back to back arrangement, little pipe is required. Since a
sink rates low in fixture units, it should have little effect on
the present drain's efficiency. Refer to the fixture unit chart
in the Uniform Plumbing Code Book*. This fixture can often be
wet vented if it is within the critical distance. If not, it
must be back vented in some areas.
Clearance from the side of a bathroom sink
to a toilet tank or finished wall should be at least 4 inches
while distance to a tub may be as little as two inches. There
must also be a minimum of 21 inches from the front edge to a
wall or fixture.
|
When cutting the capped supply
lines to install your shut off valves, cut the 1/2"
copper supply line at least 1 1/2 inches from the
finished wall to allow for an escutcheon and shut off
valve compression nut and ring.
1. Cut carefully and slowly so as not
to compress the pipe with the cutter wheel or flatten
the pipe. The compression ring and nut will only
tighten on a round pipe. |
2. Assemble the faucet according to
the directions on the package.
3. Slip on the escutcheon, the
coupling nut, the compression ring and the valve. Hold
the valve outlet up and slide it over the compression
ring.
|
| 4. Tighten down the
coupling nut onto the valve using two crescent wrenches.
It will usually squeak when it is properly seated.
5. Connect the trap to the drain
body and the drain pipe.
6. When water pressure is
restored, run water into the basin and check for any
leaks.
|
|
|
|
