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 Here
we offer general instructions and precautions for
roughing in, as well as installation procedures for
tying into your present drain waste vent and
supply systems. When all the roughing in has been
completed and you are ready to assemble your shower and
bathtub, your rough plumbing should resemble that shown
here.
Most
Common Mistakes
- Violating or ignoring local
code restrictions,
 Using
pipes that are too small,
- Attaching copper to galvanized
without using a brass or dielectric fitting between
the two,
- Not using Teflon tape or pipe
compound at threaded joints,
- Not leveling your fixtures when
installing them,
- Not installing an air gap
filling for fixtures,
- Cutting supply stub outs too
short to install the shutoff valves onto after the
finished wall is in place, or
- Not properly aligning tubing
into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto
the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is
at an angle will cause a leak.)
- When turning the water back on
in your home, always run the outside hose valve or
flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the
lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink
faucets and other plumbing trim.
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Installing
your Shower and Bathtub
Pipes required include the hot and cold
supply lines and a pipe leading to a shower head. A mixing valve
and shower head are also needed. Air chambers may be required.
Bath/shower fixtures also rate low in
fixture units and are often positioned on branch drains and wet
or back vented as are the sinks. Both shower stalls and tubs
enter the stack at floor level or below because of the position
of the floor drain trap. The faucet and shower head assembly
require an open wall for installation. Remember bathtubs and
shower stalls may require support framing. A bathtub filled with
water is extremely heavy so check building codes and framing
support before installing the tub. The minimum floor area
required for a shower stall is 1,024 square inches, and you
should allow 24 inches from the stall itself to any other
fixture or wall.
 Install
all piping before installing the tub itself.
- Lower the tub into place so
that the continuous flange fits against the wall
studs and rests on 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 supports. Anchor
the tub to the enclosure with nails or screws
inserted through the flanges into the studs.
- Assemble the drain connections
by connecting the tub overflow with the tub
drain ABOVE the trap, not beyond it. The trap will
have a compression fitting that screws over the arm
of the overflow assembly.
- Hot and cold water lines are
run to the tub/shower mixing valve where they are
attached, usually by, sweating these directly into
the hot and cold ports of the mixing valve.
- Run a pipe up the wall for the
shower head. On the top of this pipe, sweat on a
brass female threaded winged fitting that is nailed
or screwed into a framing support.
- Extend a piece of 1/2"
pipe, according to the manufacturer's instructions,
for the tub spout. Sweat on a male threaded fitting
at the end of the pipe or use a brass nipple of the
proper length and a 1/2" cap.
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- At this time you will
need to have your rough plumbing inspected.
- Restore water pressure
and check the drain connection and the
supply pipes for any leaks.
- Replace the wall with
moisture resistant drywall as a base for
your wall covering. Seal joints between the
wall and your new tub with silicone caulk as
protection against water seepage.
- Install the Spout,
handles and shower head. The shower head
screws onto the shower arm stub out. Whether
installing a new shower head or replacing an
old one, always clean the pipe threads and
apply new pipe joint compound, Teflon tape
or both to prevent leaks.
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